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第16部分（第1页）

；　clad　in　the　sweet　simplicity　of　a　little　strip　of　skin　tied　round　the　middle。　Even　here；　however；　the　female　love　of　ornament　was　in　evidence；　for　the　hair　of　the　women　was　elaborately　arranged　and　powdered　with　some　metal　that　caused　it　to　glitter　and　gave　it　a　blue　tinge。　Our　hut　was　very　superior　to　that　built　by　the　Zulus。　It　stood　in　a　reed…hedged　courtyard　which　was　floored　with　limestone　concrete。　Also　it　had　a　verandah　round　it。　The　interior　walls　were　painted　with　red　ochre　in　lines　and　spirals　something　after　the　old　Greek　fashion。　Indeed；　these　Basutos　gave　me　the　idea　that　they　were　sprung　from　some　race　with　a　considerable　knowledge　of　civilisation　and　its　arts。　In　other　ways；　however；　they　had　quite　relapsed　into　barbarism。　Thus；　as　we　entered　the　town　about　a　hundred　women　returned　from　labouring　in　the　fields；　stripped　themselves　stark　naked　before　us；　and　proceeded　to　wash　in　a　stream　—　though　I　observe　that　they　did　this　“in　a　modest　kind　of　way。”　I　should　add　that　at　this　time　very　few　white　men　had　ever　passed　the　gates　of　Secocoeni’s　Town。

It　was　an　uncanny　kind　of　place。　If　you　got　up　at　night；　if　you　moved　anywhere；　you　became　aware　that　dozens　or　hundreds　of　eyes　were　watching　you。　Privacy　was　impossible。　You　ate；　too；　in　public。　The　chief　sent　down　a　sheep。　You　saw　it　living；　next　you　saw　it　more　or　less　cooked　and　held　before　you　in　quarters　on　sticks　by　kneeling　natives。　You　cut　off　chunks　with　your　knife；　ate　what　you　liked　or；　rather；　what　you　must；　and　threw　the　rest　to　other　natives　who　stood　round　staring；　among　them　the　heir…apparent　to　the　chieftainship。　These　caught　the　pieces　as　a　dog　does；　and　gobbled　them　down　like　a　dog。

On　the　morning　following　our　arrival；　after　a　night　so　hot　that　sleep　was　almost　impossible　—　for　at　that　season　the　place；　surrounded　as　it　was　by　hills；　was　like　a　stewpan　—　we　rose　and；　quite　unwashed；　since　water　was　unobtainable；　ate　more　chunks　of　half…cooked　sheep；　which　we　flavoured　with　quinine。　Then　after　bating　demands　for　brandy；　whereof　the　fame　had　spread　even　to　this　remote　place；　we　surrendered　ourselves　into　the　charge　of　the　astute…faced　Makurupiji；　the　fat　Swasi；　and　of　the　general　of　the　forces；　an　obese　person　called　Galock；　with　a　countenance　resembling　that　of　a　pig。　These　eminent　officers　conducted　us　for　nearly　a　mile；　through　a　heat　so　burning　that　we　grew　quite　exhausted；　to　the　place　of　the　indaba；　or　talk。　Here；　under　a　rough　shed　open　on　all　sides；　sat　about　a　hundred　of　the　headmen　who　had　e　“to　witness。”　Beyond　this　was　the　chief’s　private　enclosure；　where　he　was　seated　on　the　hide　of　a　bull　under　a　shady　tree；　clothed　in　a　tiger…skin　kaross　and　a　cotton　blanket；　and　wearing　on　his　head　a　huge　old　felt　hat。　He　rose　and　shook　hands　with　us　through　the　gateway。　He　was　a　man　of　middle　age　with　twinkling　black　eyes　and　a　flat　nose；　very　repulsive　to　look　on。　After　this　he　retired　to　his　bull…hide；　where　he　sat　chewing　handfuls　of　some　intoxicating　green　leaf；　and　took　no　further　active　part　in　the　proceedings。　All　the　conversation　was　carried　on　through　Makurupiji；　his　“Tongue；”　who　personated　him；　using　the　pronoun　“I；”　and　talking　of　“my　father；　Sequati；”　and　so　forth。

It　was　very　curious　to　see　one　man　pretending　thus　to　be　another；　while　that　other　sat　within　a　few　yards　of　him　apparently　unconcerned。　Another　strange　sight　was　to　watch　the　arrival　of　the　various　notables。　As　each　headman　appeared　he　paused　in　front　of　the　gateway　beyond　which　sat　Secocoeni　chewing　his　leaves；　clapped　his　hands　softly　together　and　uttered　a　word　of　unknown　meaning　which　sounded　like　“Marema。”　Then　he　took　his　seat　with　the　others。

In　the　midst　of　this　throng　we　squatted　for　four　long　hours。　I　remember　that　I　was　perched　upon　a　log　in　the　blaze　of　the　sun；　taking　notes　to　the　best　of　my　ability　—　those　which　are　before　me　now　—　as　the　interpreters　rendered　the　conversation　from　Sesutu　into　Dutch　and　English。　It　was　a　very　trying　experience；　since　I　had　to　keep　my　every　faculty　on　the　strain　lest　I　should　miss　something　of　importance　in　this　medley　of　tongues。　On　paring　the　report　we　finally　sent　in　signed　by　Osborn；　Clarke；　and　myself　（C…1776；　Enclosure　6　in　No。　111）　—　which　report　I　remember　I　wrote　—　with　my　original　pencil　notes；　I　observe；　however；　that　not　much　escaped　me。

Into　the　details　of　that　document　I　will　not　enter　here；　as　it　is　a　matter　of　history；　further　than　to　say　that　the　alleged　treaty　under　which　Secocoeni　was　supposed　to　have　bound　himself　to　bee　a　subject　of　the　Transvaal　proved　to　be　a　fraud。　When　this　had　been　satisfactorily　demonstrated　beyond　the　possibility　of　denial；　the　officer　whom　I　have　named　Mr。　A。；　who　had　negotiated　the　said　treaty；　rose　in　a　rage；　real　or　simulated；　and　withdrew；　taking　with　him　the　Dutch　missioners；　Messrs。　Holtzhausen　and　Van　Gorkom。　After　this　we　entered　the　private　enclosure　and　had　an　interview　with　Secocoeni　himself。　At　first　the　chief　desired　that　Makurupiji　should　continue　to　speak　for　him；　but　to　this　we　refused　to　agree。

I　need　not　repeat　the　substance　of　the　interview；　since　it　is　published　as　an　enclosure　to　the　despatch　which　I　have　quoted　above。　A　re…reading　of　it；　however；　makes　me　wonder　whether　Secocoeni　himself　was　actually　privy　to　the　plot　to　murder　us；　or　whether　it　was　entirely　Makurupiji’s　work。　If　he　was；　he　must　have　been　a　really　remarkable　old　scoundrel。　I　am　bound　to　add；　however；　that；　as　his　subsequent　history　shows；　he　was　in　fact　a　quite　unprincipled　person　whom　no　promises　or　considerations　of　honour　could　bind。　So　it　is　very　possible　that　he　did　know　all　about　the　plot。

At　length　we　bade　farewell　to　the　chief；　whom　we　left　still　chewing　leaves　like　Nebuchadnezzar；　and　that　was　the　last　I　ever　saw　of　him。　On　arriving　at　our　hut　we　found　that　the　mission　had　departed；　leaving　us　without　any　guide。　We　went　back　to　Secocoeni　asking　for　guides；　and　then　began　a　series　of　mysterious　delays。　We　were　told　that　all　the　men　were　out　at　work；　although　scores　stood　about　us；　that　they　did　not　know　the　road；　and　so　forth。　At　last　Osborn　addressed　old　Swasi　and　others　in　a　way　they　could　not　misunderstand；　with　the　result　that　two　lads　were　produced。

These　lads　were　named　Sekouili　and　Nojoiani；　or　some　such　words；　appellations　which　we　corrupted　into　“Scowl”　and　“No…joke。”　Under　their　guidance　we　started。　I　may　add　here　that　when　we　had　crossed　the　mountains；　for　some　reason　which　we　could　not　at　the　time　understand；　these　Basuto　boys　expressed　themselves　as　afraid　to　return　to　Secocoeni’s　country；　saying　that　if　they　did　so　they　would　be　killed。　One　or　both　of　them　remained　in　my　service　for　a　long　time　afterwards；　as　they　implored　to　be　taken　on　with　us。

By　the　time　we　had　reached　the　crest　of　the　first　range　the　sun　had　set　and　the　moon　was　up。　Here　the　path　forked；　one　division　of　it；　that　by　which　we　had　e；　running　on　over　the　mountains；　the　other　following　the　line　of　a　deep　valley　at　a　lower　level。　A　discussion　arose　between　us　as　to　which　we　should　take；　my　elders　were　in　favour　of　the　upper；　preferring　those　ills　we　knew　of；　which　the　two　boys；　Scowl　and　No…joke；　begged　and　prayed　us　not　to　leave；　almost　with　passion。　I　have　little　doubt　that　this　was　because　the　ambush　into　which　they　were　directed　to　lead　us　was　set　upon　that　upper　path。　I；　however；　pleaded　for　the　lower　path；　just　because　the　fancy　had　taken　me　that　thence　the　view　of　the　moonlit　valley　would　be　very　grand；　and　stuck　to　my　point。　At　length　one　of　my　panions；　I　think　it　was　Osborn；　said　with　a　laugh；　“Oh！　let　the　young　donkey　have　his　way。　Who　knows；　perhaps　he　is　right！”　or　words　to　that　effect。

Evidently　my　anticipations　as　to　the　view　from　this　lower　path　were　not　disappointed；　for　in　my　notes　written　up　on　the　next　day　I　find　the　following：

“It　was　sombre；　weird；　grand。　Every　valley　became　a　mysterious　deep；　and　every　hill　and　stone　and　tree　shone　with　that　cold；　pale　lustre　that　the　moon　alone　can　throw。　Silence　reigned；　the　silence　of　the　dead。”

Had　we　gone　by　the　upper　path　I　believe　it　would　soon　have　been　the　silence　of　the　dead　for　us。　But　if　so　my　fancies；　or　some　merciful　influence　that　caused　and　directed　them；　proved　our　salvation。

After　we　had　ridden　a　long　way　through　the　silence　that　I　have　described　and　were　getting　out　of　the　mountains　into　the　valley；　we　became　aware　of　a　great　motion　going　on　amongst　the　rocks　a　mile　or　so　to　our　left；　where　ran　the　road　we　should　have　followed。　War…horns　were　blown；　and　a　Basuto　warrior　armed　with　gun　and　spear　rushed　down　to　look　at　us；　then　vanished。　Probably　a　match　struck　to　light　a　pipe　had　shown　him　our　whereabouts；　or　he　may　have　heard　our　voices。　So　we　crossed　the　mountains　in　safety。　And　now　I　will　take　up　Deventer’s　story。

He　said　that　it　was　the　accident　of　our　choosing　the　lower　path　that　in　fact　saved　our　lives；　as　on　the　upper　one　the　murderers　were　waiting。　When　we　emerged　from　it　the　Boer　mission　and　Mr。　A。　had；　he　added；　crossed　the　great　valley　and　reached　the　further　range　of　hills；　where　they　were　met　by　some　troopers　from　the　fort。　Here；　by　the　blowing　of　the　horns　that　we　had　heard；　or　otherwise　—　for　these　natives　have　very　strange　and　effective　means　of　munication　—　knowledge　came　to　Mr。　A。　that　in　some　unexpected　fashion　we　had　escaped　the　ambush　and　were　riding　towards　him　across　the　valley。　Thereon；　said　Deventer；　he　lost　all　control　of　himself　and　called　for　volunteers　to　shoot　us　down　in　the　second　nek。　Then；　according　to　him；　Holtzhausen　—　who；　by　the　way；　was　one　of　the　best　fellows　I　ever　knew；　a　very　honest　and　straightforward　man；　and　who；　like　Mr。　Van　Gorkom；　had　no　suspicion　of　any　of　these　things　—　intervened　with　great　effect；　shouting　out　that　if　this　wicked　deed　were　done　he　“would　publish　it　in　every　Court　of　Europe。”

After　this　declaration　no　volunteers　came　forward：　indeed　they　might　have　refused　to　do　so　in　any　case；　with　the　result　that　about　dawn　on　the　following　day　we　arrived　utterly　worn　out　at　Fort　Weber　—　I　remember　that　several　times　I　fell　asleep　on　my　horse　—　where　we　were　received　quite　affectionately　by　Mr。　A。

When　Deventer　revealed　all　this　appalling　story　some　months　later；　he　asked　and　received　a　promise　that　no　public　use　should　be　made　of　the　information；　since　when　it　came　to　his　knowledge　he　was　in　the　service　of　the　Boer　Government；　and　therefore　did　not　consider　himself　justified　in　disclosing　secrets　to　the　prejudice　of　another　servant　of　that　Government。　This　wish　of　his　was　strictly　respected；　but；　as　may　be　imagined；　the　English　authorities　after　the　Annexation；　although　they　could　make　no　use　of　their　knowledge；　were　not　willing　to　accede　to　Mr。　A。‘s　applications　for　employment　under　the　new　regime。　A　while　later　he　came　to　the　house　at　Pretoria　in　which　I　was　then　living　with　Osborn；　who　was　the　Secretary　to　the　Government；　which　house；　I　think；　was　called　“The　Oaks。”　Mr。　Osborn　received　him；　and　I；　who　was　writing　in　an　adjoining　room　separated　from　them　only　by　some　very　thin　partition；　heard　words　running　high　between　them。　He　（A。）　was　blustering　and　demanding　to　be　employed　as　a　right。　In　the　end　he　asked　why　he　should　be　left　out　when　so　many　other　Boer　officials　had　received　appointments。　Thereon　Osborn　answered　with　great　rigour；　“Damn